Thanks for the heads up Steve it's a nice watch but it's I think a little overpriced the one that Steve song sold on chrono24 was with nicer and it sold it $9,500 so I'm going to think about it. Is there anything that can be done about the corrosion on the hands and around the lume l u m e? Have a happy holidayThere's a nice one that's just popped up at a dealers here: https://oliverandclarke.com/vintagewatches/gxpl1lcfbilp9rbp8q10lh97bkahbc
Dealers pricing obviously and no movement or clear caseback shot.
Thanks JimThe case back looks to be worn, but in better than average condition. I'd ask the seller for a better photo of the case back in natural light and I'd ask to confirm that the serial number can still be read clearly.
Opinions may vary, but from a collector value viewpoint, it matters whether the case back is correct for the watch or not.
Dial face is very important. In my experience, it is not unusual that the hands rust and the dial stays clean. Fortunately, hand sets and crowns become available from time to time and can be found here, on Instagram or on Ebay.
If you are serious about making an offer, why not ask the seller for some additional photos of the watch under natural light?
I once bought a Mark III at a relatively high price and it was pointed out to me subsequently that the serial number on the case back was from a later Mark IV. Fortunately for me, the seller was reputable and took the watch back while providing a full refund including shipping costs both ways. The seller later handed the watch to Bonham's for auction . . . and the watch sold for about 50% of what I had originally paid.
I am interested in buying a sherpa graph mk3, ideally with a BOR band. Would consider trade/cash for a DOXA 600 tgraph, 2007, in mint, never worn condition, or a 300 tgraph proffesional, brand new in the box,
thats interesting, I have run across a very nice mk3, but it has a serial number of an early mkiv. I dont know if there was some kind of transition piece or if it has a mkiv caseback. the sticker is still on the case back and the watch is in excellent condition.The case back looks to be worn, but in better than average condition. I'd ask the seller for a better photo of the case back in natural light and I'd ask to confirm that the serial number can still be read clearly.
Opinions may vary, but from a collector value viewpoint, it matters whether the case back is correct for the watch or not.
Dial face is very important. In my experience, it is not unusual that the hands rust and the dial stays clean. Fortunately, hand sets and crowns become available from time to time and can be found here, on Instagram or on Ebay.
If you are serious about making an offer, why not ask the seller for some additional photos of the watch under natural light?
I once bought a Mark III at a relatively high price and it was pointed out to me subsequently that the serial number on the case back was from a later Mark IV. Fortunately for me, the seller was reputable and took the watch back while providing a full refund including shipping costs both ways. The seller later handed the watch to Bonham's for auction . . . and the watch sold for about 50% of what I had originally paid.
He still has not updated his S/N range to reflect that the last batch (as far as we know) of Mark IIIs were stamped 12-66 and not 6-66.
yes thanks, i saw that on the encicar 101. there is a seller who got a bunch of watches and parts from an ex enicar employee, and has a mk3 in excellent shape, but the case back, which still has a sticker on it, is 103..... He think it may well have been an transitional watch. i have no reason to disagree, but it would seem that if i bought the watch it would be hard to sell in the future, and certainly not for top dollar, even though its a very nice watch