Sherpa Guide Strip Down & Rebuild Video by Horology Biology
- Thread starter SteveHarris
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There should be a YouTube video embedded above? If not link is youtube.com/watch?v=6bb7YSmbIRE
Great stuff by Mat. I enjoyed watching it and learned a thing or two. 
Mat's just realised two parts for a Sherpa Graph v72 strip and rebuild as well. Definitely worth subscribing: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCltvV5y6oRzjvgCaISwaIqw
The Guide is my own watch which I serviced a few months back. For the video the only thing I didn't do was crack open the mainspring barrel and clean it as it has a new mainspring inside.
I still stripped the whole watch down, washed the movement and parts and rebuilt/oiled it so I don't know what you mean?
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Thnx Mat, for sharing and showing the inside of our Enicar, just great, the first time to see the service of an inhouse enicar Cal and Vj72
Very well done. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I was hoping to see you remove and install the city bezel. From time to time I think about upgrading my world time bezel. Does the Mark 4 bezel work with the previous marks? Thanks, Larry Here’s mine
Nice Guide,
They are not very hard to get off with a fine blade to pop it off. Getting it on can be a pain in the ass.
Visually there are some city changes to the early versions to the later versions. I forget which ones so maybe someone else can jump in on this.
The main thing you need to watch out for is making sure the red pointer edge matches the style of the bezel or it won't fit properly.
Some of the pointers have a bevelled edge and some have a stepped edge. The bezel inner edge needs to match this. Of course you will have no idea which would you have without removing the old one first.
I would personally leave your alone, as the hands and inner bezel have a nice aging to it so a new bezel could look to out of place.
Thanks for your comments. I look forward to more videos.
Hi Sub_just,
if it is a real compressor crown, there are no gaskets to be made and sold as the design principle is such that the sealing function is integrated into the crown design.
One cannot separate a gasket from the crown and replace it.
It is a plastic part which is integral to the whole crown.
The newer ones (late guides) with slightly flatter crowns, usually without cross hatches, differ, but I don't know their internals.
Your best bet is to get NOS crowns and hope that the plastic is still ok.
After more than 50 years of course a bit hopeful as oxidation takes its toll.
My crowns at Sherpa Watches are a 100% replacement, with a very similar design and more modern materials, but so far only for the winding crown (the other old one uses a thicker stem than mine) and I don't have decided if I want to sell them just yet.
Case back gaskets should be found in a standard size that should fit.
All the best
Martin
thanks for the reply and info. I need to replace both crowns in a current build. I know the setting crown has a .9 tap but can’t find the tap size for the gmt wheel crown. Any help on that would be great.
Hi Sub just,
the winding stem is 0.9, as you indicated, the bezel stem is 1.2
We at Sherpa decided to go 0.9 for both crowns in order to reduce variants.
So, even if we wanted to sell new compressor crowns as replacements, we would not have 1.2 as an option.
But I am pondering this thought.
Mind you, they would be expensive. Probably the reason why they ditched this design sometimes in the 60s or 70s.
Standard crowns with rubber gaskets are simpler and cheaper.
Cheers,
Martin